The only real annoyance I found is the speed, or lack of it. It's also possible to get surprising good results even starting with one single exposure! The hi lights of SNS-HDR are probably the accuracy of the automatic alignment & deghosting of the photos to be combined, and the quality of the natural images that it can produce (versus the over-the-top ones that often are associated with HDR). The simple presets of the Lite version are very effective, and do works very well in most cases. The just run it approach is almost refreshing, compared with some other programs that often need a lot of works and tweaks to come up with a good result. But I do like the simplicity of the Lite version. The other versions have instead a complete GUI, witch let tweaks a lot of settings like the others HDR tools around usually do. Being command line driven, it's possible to just drag some photos over a link to it, or use it for batch operation, call it from scripts or other applications, etc.Ī simple GUI is also available, just to ease the process of launching it. It basically just need to know the images to operate with, and it start crunching pixels. The main point is: it just works (I have heard that somewhere.), and works very well.
Sns hdr forum update#
The website is in Polish, but Google Translate does a good enough job to help understand, and the download or changelog (it's update quite often) are just a click away. Lite: Freeware - Home: 30 Euro - Pro: 85 EuroĪnyone that like to play with HDR imaging, or photo retouching in general, should give a look at this program by Sebastian Nibisz.
Sns hdr forum pro#
I also made a comparison chart for what specifically is different, but at a certain point the data between the exif files was so different that it seemed a bit irrelevant to continue making it.Aside from the Freeware Lite version, there are trials for the Home & Pro
I can post the DNG exif data for both if it would help people understand, but it is a LOT of information to look over. Posting here to see if anyone has run into a similar issue, and if there is a potential solution that I have missed despite my best efforts. Part of me is hoping there is a way around this issue, but due to how much different the RICOH DNG and AdobeDNG exif are, I am not particularly hopeful. I am wondering what the plugin is looking for to make sure that the DNG is “valid”, and if there is either an update coming to broaden the scope of what RSLRP will accept, or if there is a way to modify the exif data in generic adobe DNG files so that they will run with RSLRP. This is not too surprising, but there are so many factors, I am at a loss for to where to start. I ran an analysis on exif data of the DNGs and found a ton of divergence between what comes out of the RICOH Theta Z1 camera and what Adobe uses as it’s generic DNG type. I have used the same naming convention, and the same image size, to the pixel. It seems like Stitcher is very sensitive to the type of DNG being used. This does not work, at least not with Lightroom’s DNG export settings. Seemingly the next solution is to create an HDR image using bracketed, but unstitched shots from the Theta Z1 camera, and then creating a DNG of the HDR to run through RSLRP. This creates alignment issues when trying to stitch the images as an HDR after using the stitcher plugin, rendering it seemingly useless for HDR images. I am guessing this is due to the majority of the image being 255/255/255 or 0/0/0/, thus not giving RSLRP much to work with. Bright and/or dark exposures (as needed for HDR) will often not stitch the same way as the rest of the exposures. It seems to work fine for single images, but there is an issue. I realize that one answer to this problem is the use of PTGui, but testing has revealed that PTGui is not as effective as the RICOH Stitcher Lightroom Plugin (RSLRP), so for all intents and purposes: assume PTGui is not the answer to this, as it is sub-par and produces unacceptable results enough that it is problematic.įirst, RSLRP is functioning for me with DNG images taken directly from the camera itself. I have been looking through this forum for a while trying to see if there has been an answer to this specific issue, but I haven’t yet found anything that has been answered.